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Etiquette at Japanese Sword Shows
A beginner's guide to handling Japanese swords at Token Kai
by Adrian Ko. Photographs by Jesse Pelayo.
Attending a Japanese sword show is quite a privilege. In one day you can hold upwards of 200 antique swords in various conditions, in price ranges from $500 to $15,000. There is a particular etiquette of politeness and respect that is expected of those attending Japanese sword shows (Token Kai). The atmosphere is notably different, as these are frequented by high-end nihon-to (traditional Japanese sword) collectors, and the shows are viewed by such as of more prestige than knife shows or gun shows. It is almost like walking into a museum rather than into a market.
The goal of this article is to serve as a beginner's guide to sword etiquette at Japanese sword shows. It is important to observe these rules for your own safety, for a lack of etiquette can be seen as offensive, and blatant disregard can result in you being thrown out of a show and banned permanently. This is not so much because sword show participants hold themselves in higher regard than they ought, but rather the swords they bring are of tremendous historical and financial value, and causing any potential damage to them is completely inappropriate.
Also note that this article does not teach you how to assess or appraise Japanese swords.
Study about Swords Beforehand
In order to truly enjoy Japanese swords, some studying before attending a show is recommended. An understanding of the anatomy of a Japanese sword and what parts come apart, etc. are valuable so if something does come apart in your hands you won't die of fright.
Also, having some very basic knowledge is helpful. It keeps you humble too. It is better to be humble than to be humiliated. Avoid making any authoratative statements without proof. People trying to show off their knowledge can easily be out-debated by others. If you don't know, just simply say, "I don't know" and you'll not only save face but earn respect in the long run!
Standing at the Tables
Remember, the people manning the tables are there to sell swords. High visibility and availability is important to them. So do not monopolize the table nor monopolize their time. While some dealers are very knowledgeable with swords, there are those that just act as brokers. Their knowledge is of varying degrees of reliability. If you want learn about Japanese swords it is recommended that you do it on your own time rather than take up their's. This further helps you dissemenate truth from sales pitch and deceptive sales tactics.
It is best to stand to one side of the table so that the center area is open for others to come see. Do not lean over the table and block swords from other people's view.

Always Obtain Permission
First, always ask permission before you touch anything. The swords belong to either the dealer, or belong to someone for whom the dealer is selling the sword on consignment. The more you respect the person behind the table as well as his swords, the more he will respect you.
Some immediately yank swords off the table and begin looking, despite there being signs saying "please ask permission first!" Many cannot discern the difference between a $2,000 and a $20,000 - and if such an expensive sword were placed there, you can be sure the fellow behind the table would hope you are up to par in your etiquette and handling to not abuse $20,000 and end up reducing the sword to a $2,000 sword!
Always Show Respect
Michael Bell - a master smith of Japanese-style blades (who completed a traditional apprenticeship under Japanese master smith Nakajima Muneyoshi) shared this following sad story with me: there was once a person who went to his table and did not ask permission. He proceeded to get his finger prints all over the blade (finger print oils are acidic to blade steel, but this is more an issue of poor etiquette and, moreover, poor manners). He spoke unkindly of it and tried to resheath. But he did so incorrectly and got it jammed inside the scabbard, so he tried to force it in. Finally, frustrated, he dropped the sword onto the table, not bothering to place it back properly, and walked away.
Other smiths lament over the lack of respect. One North American smith relates, "People tell me things like 'Your swords aren't real' or 'Your swords aren't traditional.' Even worse, they'll say, 'You have no right to make Japanese-style swords.'"
We must never become so low that we show a complete lack of human decency to our fellow man. Let us learn from these examples and try to make smiths and table operators feel appreciated. Sometimes kindness gets returned in different venues. You never know!
Receiving the Sword
There are basically three ways of picking up or receiving a sword:
The sword is on the table. The sword may be laid upon the table. At which point, once you have permission, just simply pick it up. It's not a bomb; it won't explode.
The sword is handed to you in the scabbard. If the sword was on a stand, the dealer or table owner (hereafter referred to as "dealer") may remove the sword for you (and can do so if you're afraid of moving the other swords around that might be in the way). When a sword is handed to you, it is held horizontally and generally done with two hands. Receive it with two hands. Give a little polite nodding bow or a simple "thank you" and a smile.
The sword is handed to you unsheathed, The dealer may chose to unsheath the sword and hand it to you. Note that it is held upright that the edge is facing him and that the spine of the blade faces you. He is also holding the bottom half of the handle. To receive the sword, hold the upper half of the handle right under the guard tsuba. When you hand him back the sword, rotate the sword and have the edge facing you, and hold the bottom half of the sword.
Drawing the Sword
This section applies if the sword was given to you while within its scabbard. This part is of utmost importance.
The sword is drawn edge up or edge-facing you. Do not point it out to the crowd, as some feel strangely inspired to walk right into the blade. Keep the blade over the table at all times. If there is not enough space, hold the sword upwards and pull the scabbard away from the sword. Hold the sword firmly as you find a place to put the scabbard down.
Some swords - such as World War II gunto have a press-button at the fuchi, i.e. the collar just underneat the guard (tsuba). This is a latch mechanism that keeps the sword in the scabbard so that it doesn't come out accidentally (though not always reliable). There are times when a sword may be hard to draw because of this latch mechanism. One time I drew a sword and the whole handle assembly came apart. The blade stayed in the scabbard and the handle came straight off. Don't worry; just put it back in. Whenever you need help, always consult the friendly dealer.
Some swords are not fully mounted but are kept in shirasaya. These are storage scabbards - not stick swords or cane swords like so many mail order catalogs claim. Shirasaya may be a bit harder to draw. Never pull a sword out with full force, for by doing so you may injure yourself severely. Shirasaya are traditionally made from two halves of a singular contiguous piece of wood, and stuck together with rice glue. They can come apart. Drawing a sword with full force can not only slice a scabbard open but slice your own hand as well.
The proper way to unsheath a blade in shirasaya that may be tightly fit is to firmly grip the scabbard throat and the handle throat and cross your thumbs to push each away from the other slowly. Once you've pried handle and scabbard apart by about an inch, then draw the sword as outlined in this section.
Handling/Inspecting the Sword
This is where many goof up. Let's cover some don'ts:
Don't touch the blade. Golden rule number one. Finger print oils are acidic and attack blade steel. (Finger print oils can even attack stainless steel.) The ultimate sign of disrespect is running grubby fingers on someone's blade. If you do accidentally touch it, the dealer will generally have soft cloth to wipe it. He might oil the blade before resheathing it.
Don't test the edge. Golden rule number two is to not rub your thumb on the edge or test it with a finger nail. Again this is offensive, and skin oils can stain the blade. If you are absolutely set on buying that sword, you can get permission to test it on a sheet of paper.
Don't breathe on the blade. Your breath (as good smelling or bad smelling as it may be) has moisture, and moisture is bad for the blade and considered bad etiquette. If you have to look at the blade very closely, hold your breath, or hold a hankerchief or a bit of paper to deflect the airflow from your nostrils (this is more an extreme action but practiced by high-level collector circles in Japan).
Again, don't wave the sword around. If nobody is immediatley nearby, the owner may give you permission to handle the sword to check for how well it handles (if he considers you a serious enthusiast). Do not re-enact any movie moves. You will embarass yourself, but above all you will compromise the safety of those around you, no matter how good you think you are (you will get thrown out of the show). Also check for the bamboo pins to be in the holes, as a sword blade can become an instant sharp speeding steel missle if the bamboo pin (mekugi) is absent.
As mentioned before, this article is not a guide to appraising a sword, but this is your opportunity to look for scratches, forge welding flaws, chips in the edge, how much "meat" there is left on the blade shoulder (the edge-notch where the tang ends and blade begins). You should observe the shape, curvature, sectional geometry, line definition, forge folded grain in the surface, and the temper line and hardened edge. Also observe the tip.
Sometimes inspecting the blade while holding it upright is difficult, as some collectors want to hold it more horizontally to catch the light a bit (also your arm just gets tired). The dealer may have a cloth for your to rest the sword on. Some collectors perusing the show tables go as far as having white gloves. You may even want to use latex gloves.
Use the dealer's cloth to wipe the blade if you've accidentally touch it.
Returning the Sword
As the sword is drawn edge-up, it should be resheathed edge-up. Whether you are holding the sword horizontally over the table or vertically at an angle pointed towards the ceiling, place the tip of the sword into the mouth of the scabbard, and bring the scabbard down onto the blade. Always keep the edge up because doing so otherwise can potentially scratch the blade within the scabbard inner lining (especially if there is sawdust still there or if the scabbard was poorly made, etc.).
If the dealer just gave you the drawn sword, then hold the sword upright, edge facing you, while gripping the pommel end of the handle, and hand it back to him that way.
If you were given the sheathed sword, then hand the sheathed sword back to him, while holding it with both hands. A small nod of a bow will do, and a "Thank you" will always help!
Final Recommendations
My recommendation is to not make a purchase without having done sufficient study to give you a sense of the value of the sword. Not all swords are of high quality. Each will require a different degree of restoration, and the cost of restoring swords may be phenomenal. Further, an improper retoration by other than a qualified Japanese sword polisher will reduce the value of your blade - even destroy its intrinsic value as a historical relic. Also, each blade will be of a different degree of battleworthiness depending on age and how worn the blade is. It is important to note that purchasing antiques is not recommended for beginners because there are too many areas that must be scrutinized before making such an expensive purchase. I would personally recommend and encourage the beginner to study first, and begin with a custom modern-made blade.
While the aforementioned points are generally the conduct for shows that focus on traditional Japanese swords, I personally recommend that the above etiquette, respect and politeness be extended towards the work of American smiths as well.
Many bladesmiths and knifemakers have often marveled that I asked them for permission to pick up their work, and that I don't test my thumb or thumbnail on the edge of their blades, and leave acidic skin oils to oxidize their blades. Moreover, they are often touched by the respect I give them - as I respect fellow Americans as much as I respect Japanese smiths.
If there would be a "Dale Carnegie" school of sword etiquette, this would be it. A little politeness and respect goes a long way, and sometimes you'll find that the custom blade you order from the bladesmiths just somehow have a special sense of care in its final presentation because of your thoughtfulness.
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