"What are the storngest metals known to man, even stronger than highest quality steel?" Is there a material stronger than steel and nigh-indestructable?

• Titantium - Most seem to think that the miracle metal would usually be "titanium" for swords. In actual fact, titanium is only a little better (and more expensive) than aluminum. (Both are usually in alloyed form, hence if a bar of titanium is purchased, it is usually a titanium alloy, similar to commercial aluminum being in alloyed form.) Both have a higher strength-to-weight ratio than steel. However, in the form of swords, titanium-alloy has not reached the hardness of steel in order to be of any effective use as a real sword. The best application in swords would be a thick-edged stage prop - however, aluminum will do just as well with negligible difference in performance and a tremendous savings in price.
• Tungsten - Tungsten is used only as an alloying element in steel, but as a pure metal is unsuitable for steel.
• Tantalum - Tantalum is an exotic material but again is unsuitable as a primary component material for sword blades.
• Uranium - Radioactive and deadly to the wielder of the sword. No custom sword maker will realistically work with the material because it is hazardous.
• Diamond - Unrealistic in terms of price. There is no industrial process that is commercially viable that can create a single-piece diamond configuration in the shape of a sword. Some have asked about lacing diamonds along the edge of a sword. This does nothing to increase a sword edge's strength. If the diamond in this case is in dust form, it can help by providing serrations. However, at a more microscopic level, dendritic steel (which is formed via casting and is viable only for short lengths such as in knives due to structural integrity tradeoffs) can provide good "micro-serrations." Bear in mind though that the cutting power of a sword depends greatly on the technique used to cut, rather than how "razor sharp" a sword is. A slightly blunt sword in a trained swordsman's hands can still sever limbs.
• Ceramics - Ceramics may be good for short knives, but for swords where blades have to endure a higher degree of shock and strain, ceramics are far too brittle.

The interest in non-steel alternatives come from a variety of sources:

• The Entertainment Industry - Movies such as "Blade" seem to promote titanium as something superior to steel, reinforcing the misconception in the minds of viewers who in general have not studied metallurgy or worked with either material. Simply put, a steel sword that is properly heat treated will have a combination of better shock absorption and edge-retention than a titanium sword, and will be able to cut into a sword made of titanium! Also, films and television programs such as "Highlander" depict swords as being able to withstand unthinkable abuse (cutting into bars, doorknobs, statues, concrete, etc.) when in reality the historical swordsman did everything in his power to preserve the edge of his hard-earned investment (this is further reinforced by many Medieval swordsmanship manuals offering a plethora of practical alternatives to edge-on-edge fighting). On television, the actual swordfights are done with soft and light aluminum-bladed props, and the "concrete" in this case is nothing more than paper maché which even a butter knife can pierce! Again, keep in mind that Hollywood is about creating illusions with props which would not exhibit the same qualities as in real life.
• Poor Prior Experience - Prior exposure to badly made swords may be another factor. Swords generally made of stainless steel from Spain or Taiwan (which are actually decorative swords and not real) are generally made thick and heavy because they are merely non-tapering rectangular bars ground to a diamond section and given an approximate sword-like shape. Resulting swords are heavy and unwieldly. Also, some "stage combat" prop swords favored by fantasy faire circles or role-playing groups are, again, props and not real swords - these "swords" are heavier and thicker to allow friends to club at each other's swords for mock fighting. They are worthless in historical combat. These sword-like objects should not be seen as identical in handling as historical swords.
• Marketing - There are some sources of fantasy weapons made from aluminum alloy or titanium alloy. Usually these are sold in the form of alien weapons such as the Klingon battleth (of Star Trek fame. In real life, a steel battleth would be likely to be too heavy for actual use, so a stage prop made out of aluminum would reduce the risk of wear and tear on the actors' arms.) Typically at a Faire you may find grand demonstrations of swords smashing through concrete blocks and demolishing the edges of historically accurate swords. Surely a sword that is capable of such a feat is superior, right? Not necessarily. In order to accomplish this, the "sword" is made thicker than its historically accurate counterpart. The extra mass behind the edge allows it to endure more abuse but this also makes the sword much heavier and unwieldly (unless it is counterbalanced unrealstically by using a heavier pommel, thereby further increasing the sword's overall weight.) Hence there are knightly swords that weigh 5 to 15 pounds - and people who made them boasting that old swords were that heavy - when in actual fact the average historical knightly sword weigh a mere 2 to 2.5 pounds! In other words, many of these heavier swords today would have been rejected by the knights of old. What good is a sword if it tires the knight out within the first 2-3 minutes of battle and the fatigue ends up getting him killed? Furthermore, if smashing through concrete blocks and demolishing other swords' edges is what makes a "sword" superior, then a good $10 crowbar is the ultimate sword!

So far, the requirements of shock absorbance, resistance to fracture, strength, wear resistance, impact tolerance, etc. are all addressed by steel. Furthermore, a properly made sword will exhibit these qualities and can be both light and agile.

This does not mean that a steel sword is invulnerable. There is no such thing as a fully functional "Light Saber". However, as technologically advanced as we are, we have only encountered and uncovered a small fraction of all the mysteries that steel and iron holds.

The following challenges are addressed by steel.

• Strength - The term "strength" is a highly subjective term, but the purpose of a sword is not to cut cars in half or rock (for that, please go to the movies) but, historically, was to kill your opponent on the battlefield. This means an emphasis on swordsmanship (e.g. what's the use of the "best" car when you don't know how to drive on a Grand Prix circuit?) Steel can be hardened as a result of thermal/heat treating. Too soft, and steel can be cut into. Too hard, and steel can be too brittle and fracture. European swords seem to do well at approximately 50 Rockwells of the Rockwell "C" scale (i.e. 50 HRc).
• Hardness - The quality of a sword being harder. Again, if too hard, the steel will become too brittle. Edge-holding is a quality of hardness. It is best that edges do not exceed 60 HRc for swords (with rare exception).
• Toughness - The term "toughness" is the sword's ability to withstand shock. Generally a Rockwell hardness in the mid 30's to mid 40's will suffice. Note: hardness and toughness are inversely proportional. The softer a sword is, the "tougher" it is. The harder a sword is, the greater the ability to cut materials softer than itself and for it to retain its edge.
• Flexibility - Some swords can flex and not take a set (i.e. remain bent). This is a function of good heat treating. Some swords are meant to be stiff, but if flexed can still return true and not be permanently warped.

Therefore the deciding factor on the performance of the steel is not what great steel or alloy of steel or "superior" mix of steel is used, but how well it is heat treated. Generally a low-alloy (simple) medium or high carbon steel is ideal for swords.

Increasing Handling Performance of Steel Blades

How is a sword made lighter and more agile? Let us examine these following points:

• Poorly Made Swords - Regardless of whether they are sharp or not, the stainless steel decorative swords from Spain and Taiwan are sword-like objects whose purpose is to be displayed and not to be used. They are not made to the same parameters of yesteryear. The blade of a typical knightly sword is made by taking a rectangular bar of steel and grinding off the corners and then profiling a tip. However, because the thickness of the blade is identical throughout the length, the sword will exhibit poor weight distribution - and that is why so many decorative swords are so heavy. Those who market these swords as "real" - including those who purchase them with the illusion/allusion that they are "real" thus have the misconception that real swords are supposed to be heavy.
• Improper weight - A typical decorative medieval sword from Spain or Taiwan (or other manufacturers) may run from 4 lbs. up to 10 lbs.! Historical medieval knightly swords are anywhere from 2 to 2.5 lbs. with some drawing close to 3 lbs. Longswords seldom exceed 4 lbs. The great claims of "real swords" being in the range of 30 lbs. may actually be parade items, but certainly not weapons intended for the battlefield.

• Profile Taper - A blade that exhibits a profile taper is one such that is wider at the base (near the hilt) and proceeds to narrow towards the point. This means there is a reduction of mass as it proceeds towards the tip, thus causing the weight distribution to fall in favor towards the hilt, resulting in a lighter sword overall.
• Distal taper Taper - This is where the blade's thickness lessens from the base towards the point. Even if the profile or silouette of a sword blade is perfectly parallel, because the thickness reduces along its length, the blade's mass decreases in proportion, thus resulting in weight distribution similar to the previous points.
• Fullers/Grooves - When properly placed, a fuller/groove can serve to lightnen the blade's mass without sacrificing too much structural integrity. The result is that the spine of the sword is now like two functional spines (think of an "I" beam in building construction). While fullers do not add strength, they do seem to increase blade stiffness somewhat. Fullers/Grooves are sometimes incorrectly called "blood grooves." There are many weapons that have grooves, but because they are cutting weapons and not thrusting weapons so much, there is really no need for a "blood channel".

• Harmonic Balance - When a blade is impacted by another object such as an opponent's blade, the shock generates vibrations in the structure of the sword, hence the use of the word "harmonics". A sword that is not harmonically balanced will deliver a great deal of shock to the grip, resulting in pain and/or discomfort to the weilder. In the structure of the sword, the vibration will have certain "nodes" where the vibration is at an absolute minimum. The advanced swordmaker will be cognizant of this factor and position this node at the upper part of the grip so as to minimize shock to the hand and minimize lateral vibration to the crossguard.
• Overall Construction - The tang is the narrower portion of a blade that enters the grip. What good is a blade if the tang is a thin "rat tail" welded to the base of the blade? The sword is only as good as its weakest structural point. Historical tangs were much wider than the "rat tail" tangs commonly used today in decorative swords. One maker who boasts his swords as functioning as a single crystal somehow oversaw this problem and a customer's hilt broke off from the blade, revealing the skinny tang. The tang and the blade must be of a singular piece of steel, and the tang should be considerably wider (and thicker if possible) to withstand the stresses of combat. Finally the grip itself should be solid wood. Many decorative pieces are hollow sleeves with a wire wrap on the outside. An object that looks like a sword many not necessarily function like a sword.

Based on the above information, steel is still the best for swords. Fantasy misconceptions and fiction aside, a sword is best made with steel that is correctly forged (or ground to shape) and subjected to proper heat treating to achieve performance.

"Gold is for the mistress, silver for the maid,
Copper for the craftsman, cunning at his trade.
Good! Said the baron, while sitting in his hall,
But Iron, Cold Iron, is master of them all." - Kipling

Summary

• Heat treatment is the process of heating and quenching steel to obtain the proper crystaline formations in the pursuit of a good balance between hardness and toughness.
• Authentic swords are made with proper weight distribution - a combination of distal tapering, profile tapering, and/or adding fullers/grooves.
• Non-steel materials such as titanium, etc. are not cost effective nor are they at hardness levels that will rival steel.

• Article: "Titanium - Miracle Metal?" - Sword Forum Magazine Online, January 1999 Edition (accessible via Main Menu.)