In general, there is some clearance between the end of the tang and the
pommel - approximate 3-4+ inches. In other words, the tang occupies
approximately two-thirds the length of the hilt. This was accepted
practice with traditional Japanese swords. However, in some cases, if the
tang is much shorter than this, the tang end-point can become a stress point
and thus a potential breakage point if weak wood is used in the hilt.
Fortunately, Chen Chao-Po (a.k.a. Paul Chen) has improved the quality of
these swords significantly over original offerings, and although the hilts
are in no danger of breakage, they may still be too long to suit your
physique or your school of martial arts. This article will show you how
to shorten such a hilt such that a more conservative length, "full tang"
hilt can be achieved for those who desire it.
Before you proceed, keep in mind that the Golden Oriole - and the Musashi
Daito especially - have longer blades. Shortening the hilt will affect
the balance point of the sword, especially with a longer blade like in
the
Musashi Daito model. In the case of the Oriole, it improved the balance
for me, but because balance is so personal, it might not be right for you,
so be sure to read the instructions carefully and proceed at your own
discretion.
Glue (optional)
Using whichever method is suggested by your martial arts school,
determine the required hilt length and choose the nearest wrapping
cross-over on the side of the blade the knot ends on (see the photo
for step 2). The wood needs to be cut about 2 wrapping-widths longer
than the crossing point to leave wood for the kashira cap to fit on.
In the photo, I've wrapped an elastic band a few crossings below where
I want to cut, this will allow me a bit of room to work but also keeps
the wrappings intact past the point I want to cut.
The tang of the Oriole is 11" long, but the habaki and tsuba, etc take up
some of this length, so it ends approximately 9-1/2"-10" down the hilt;
although I'd recommend a minimum hilt length of 10" for a katana, especially
one with a long blade, if you decide to make it shorter, you may end up
having to hack-saw off a bit of the end of the tang if you make it too short
(otherwise it will stick out the end of the hilt)- be careful as this may
negatively affect the balance.
Step 1: Start undoing the knot at the pommel cap by untucking the end of
the wrapping.
Step 2: Pull the end of the wrapping through under the crossover.
Step 3: The other end of the wrapping is folded over top of the
crossover point and tucked under, so simply pull the end out.
Step 4: Pull both free ends from under the crossover.
Step 5,6: Pull both free ends through the kashira (pommel cap). There
are two shitodome (eyelets) that fit in the holes of the pommel cap,
put these aside so they don't get lost. Turn the hilt over and start
untying the other side.
Step 7: One end of the wrapping goes under the crossover and is folded
across. Pull this part of the wrapping and pull the end through.
Step 8: The other end of the wrapping goes over under another part of
the wrapping and over the crossover. Pull this end through as well.
Step 9: Pull the end that was freed in Step 7 up under the crossover,
and this will undo the rest of the knot.
Step 10: Start unwinding the wrapping. Note the two paper triangles
under the freed wrapping. Save all the paper triangles for re-use when
re-wrapping.
Step 11: After you have unwrapped a few turns, get a scrap piece of
wood and place its edge against the rim of the kashira, and knock it
off (it make take a bit of force as the kashira is glued on, but do
not under any circumstances use any tools to pry on the cap or you'll
damage it). Note that the end of the hilt has a slot drilled through
for the wrapping to go through.
Step 12: Continue unwrapping until just after the point you want to
cut (the lower menuki will probably be exposed - in this photo, I've
already removed it). Note the marking on the side of the hilt where I've
marked the location for the cut.
Step 13: Using a saw, cut through the wood and the rayskin. I wanted
to save the end to use as the hilt on a tanto I'm making, so I chose to
go with only a 10-1/2" hilt and measured quite carefully, but if you don't
have any use for the removed part, you might want to start with a longer
hilt (12'' or so) and work down. After cutting, you can re-assemble the
sword and check to see if the balance and general feel is acceptable and
if not, continue to cut down the hilt until it is.
Step 14: Using a rasp or a coarse file, round off the end of the wood
core and test to see that the kashira fits again (I've also temporarily
re-wrapped to check whether the length is right- the wrapping should touch
the rim of the kashira- if the hilt is still too long or you've cut a bit
too much off, you'll either have to cut more off, or get some bits of scrap
wood and glue them back onto the end to shim the kashira out).
Step 15: At this point, if you don't care about the lower menuki
and want as easy a process as possible, just leave it out and proceed to
the next step, otherwise, continue unwrapping a few more turns and replace
the menuki further up the hilt so that it does not cover up the lower peg hole.
You may want to place a small drop of glue on the back of the menuki to help
hold it in place.
Step 16: Use a saw or a small rasp to cut out a gap at the end of the hilt
for the wrapping to go over (if you want, you could instead get a drill in
order to drill a slot similar to the original, but it's more work and it's
more difficult to thread the wrapping through - both methods (gap and slot)
are traditional). Be sure you cut the gap deep enough or the shitodome won't
go back on the kashira straight. Then re-wrap the cord to the end, inserting
the paper triangles to keep the shape of the wrap.
Step 17: I won't go into how to tie the knot as there are many sets of
instructions already available (one set is available
here,
or you can follow the images above in reverse). Instead, I will show the
easiest way of getting the wrapping underneath the crossovers for tying the
final knot- most of the instruction sets recommend things like tape, icepicks,
tweezers, etc, but they are all still quite difficult. What you have to do is
make a very simple tool for threading the wrapping - it's just a strip of thin
material folded over and a point cut at the free ends. The one illustrated is
made of a length of plastic binding strap that Amazon.com used to package a book I
bought, but you can also use a strip cut out of a plastic or aluminum pie-pan.
Step 18: To illustrate the use of this tool, I've simply tied an
length of wrapping tightly around a dowel. It is tied tightly enough
that no icepick, etc will fit underneath.
Step 19: Hold the pointed ends of the tool together and work them
under the wrapping- because the tool is so thin, it should go under
very easily.
Step 20: Push the tool about halfway through, then spread the pointed
ends and sandwich the free end of the wrapping between the ends. The
end of the wrapping does *NOT* need to be perfect, in fact I'm
illustrating with a frayed end.
Step 21: Squeeze the pointed "sandwiched" end with your fingers and slowly
withdraw the other end of the tool back through the way it came, you'll
notice the sandwiched end of the wrapping goes with it easily under the
tightest wrap.
Step 22: Continue to pull the tool through slowly until the end of the
wrapping comes through.
Step 23: Remove the tool and pull the rest of the wrapping under.
Easy isn't it? You can use this tool and the technique illustrated to
easily and quickly re-tie the knot. Because you cut down the hilt and made
it shorter, you should have lots of extra wrapping length to tie the new
knot with. Don't forget to put the shitodome back into the holes in the
kashira, and make sure that the kashira is the right side up (bird's head
on front/edge side). You can put a bit of glue under the kashira before
mounting it back on the end of the hilt to make sure it stays in place and
if you want extra security, you can put a drop of glue on the end after
you tie the knot (I've never had a knot come apart unless intentionally
dismantled or worn out, so the glue is usually not necessary).
Step 24: The completed hilt, both sides - the end of the tang ends
about 3/4'' from the bottom of the hilt now and is essentially "full-tang",
and the balance point has moved up about 1''.
Step 25: You're done!
Here's a shot of the overall sword with hilt shortened (the saya has also been redone
with hand-rubbed gloss lacquer vs. the poor enamel paint originally on it).
Editor's Note: The sword shown in the above photographs
- a CAS Iberia Golden Oriole - resulted in the Point of Balance moving
from 3.9" fore of the guard to almost 5", making it more favorable a
cutting weapon for the writer, Christopher Lau. It must be further noted
that the aforementioned handle alteration instructions are provided for
your convenience but it is the sole responsibility of the owner to ensure
complete safety and good workmanship. SFMO will not be responsible for
the outcome of your shortening procedure. Keep in mind that traditional
handles had a full wrap of ray skin to reinforce handle stability. Most
CAS Iberia katanas by Chen only feature panels of ray skin and use a weak
wood. Make sure your handle wrapping is tight and done correctly. Please
proceed with full caution.
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The mass-production sword market has recently seen the arrival of various
Japanese-style swords made by Chen Chao-Po distributed by C.A.S. Iberia.
The "Golden Oriole" and "Musashi Daito" models (as well as certain other
swords made by Chen) have hilt lengths that exceed Iaido specifications
and may hinder proper technique.
